Journeys and Adventures

Iceland: Cold, Dark, Expensive, and Wonderful

Many consider a vacation to Iceland in the winter a crazy thought.  It is cold, dark, and expensive.  While true, it is also a unique and dynamic vacation destination, and visiting in the winter has special perks.

            Iceland is cold; the average high for the country in July, it’s hottest month, is only 54º Fahrenheit.  But, with the Gulf Stream beating against the island, the average high in January is not much lower, just 35º Fahrenheit, much warmer than other European countries during that month.

            Opportunities to enjoy special winter activities abound in the cold weather, though.  While Iceland is not known for its skiing, uncrowded ski resorts dot the countryside.  Bláfjöll, just 30 minutes away from the capital city of Reykjavik, offers slopes for all skiing abilities, night skiing, and several trails for cross-country skiing.  Several tour companies offer glacier tours, another popular winter activity.  On these tours, adventurous tourists explore the glaciers of Iceland on fast-moving snowmobiles, four-wheel drive jeeps, or go ice climbing.

            For those not quite as active or adventurous, Reykjavik still has plenty to keep you cozy during the winter months.  A stop in one of the many coffee shops gives shoppers and tourists the chance to warm up and relax with warm and spicy tea, flavorful coffee from all over the world, or a kleinur, a special Icelandic light pastry similar to a donut.  Warming up in one of Reykjavik’s many thermal pools, heated by the city’s abundant supply of geothermal heat, is also an Icelandic tradition.  Sitting in a warm pool while the snow falls around you is a special experience in the winter that leaves you feeling relaxed and content.

            Iceland, during the winter, is dark.  Although the country can see up to 23 hours of light during the summer, the sun appears for only six hours during the winter.  Enjoying Reykjavik’s many museums, though, does not require sunlight.  Several museums investigate the country’s interesting history.  The Culture House explores ancient sagas and other manuscripts that mark the Viking expansion of Northern Europe, while the National Museum of Iceland houses objects that date back more than 1,200 years to when the Vikings are believed to have invaded the island.  The Settlement Exhibition contains ruins of a farmhouse from around the year 871.  Reykjavik also includes several art museums (with both local and foreign artists from all different art styles), a photography museum, and other special exhibitions throughout the year.

            The dark, too, makes it a perfect time of year to experience Reykjavik’s exciting nightlife.  Bars and nightclubs, ranging from sports bars to posh dance clubs, line the city’s downtown streets.  During the week, most close at around 0100, but on the weekends, the streets fill with partiers around midnight and bars and clubs stay open into the early morning hours.  Icelanders pride themselves on their local musicians and several places offer live music.

            And, yes, Iceland is expensive.  At current exchange rates, a small beer costs approximately $8, a double room with private shower and bath can cost anywhere between $70 and $230, and a three-course meal (for one person) around $60.  Maria Reynisdottir, Visit Reykjavik’s Assistant Project Manager for Tourism, points out that “Iceland has high standards.  You pay for a four-star meal and receive a four-star meal, just as you would at a high-class resort in London or Paris, for example.”

            Several options exist for the budget traveler.  Purchasing a Reykjavik Tourist Card from the tourist office in 24-, 48-, or 72-hour increments gives visitors free admission to almost all of the city’s museums, several of the thermal pools, free Internet access, and unlimited travel on city buses.  Grocery stores are available throughout the city for inexpensive snacks and visitors can sample one of the country’s other traditional favorites, a Pylsa, also known as a hot dog, for a quick, easy, and inexpensive lunch.

            Several sites have no entrance fees, including the Hallgrímskirkja church, a church with a fascinating history and impressive architecture.  The Pearl sits atop huge tanks that store the city’s hot water and offers a 360º observation deck with spectacular views of the whole city, the harbor, and the mountains in the distance, also with no entrance fee.  And of course, everyone can window-shop along the busy main streets, feed the ducks at the Tjörnin City Pond (the ducks remain during the winter), and stroll along the marina, watching the fishermen go to work, at no cost.

            Also good news for the budget-minded traveler, effect March 2007, the Value-Added-Tax on food will lower from the current 14% to 7 %.  And as Iceland continues to grow as a popular tourist destination, flight schedules are beginning to include more and more flights, including some on budget airlines.  Some hotels offer rates as much as 30% less during the winter months as during the summer.

            The winter holidays are also special in Iceland.  Christmas on the island is, according to Reynisdottir, “more peaceful and not as commercial” as in some other areas of the world.  Christmas lights adorn the buildings and children anticipate the visit of the “13 Lads” that come to the city, making mischief and leaving gifts for the well-behaved children.  Of course the city’s legendary nightlife vibrates on New Year’s Eve and the city’s sky fills with vibrant lights, colors, and bangs as fireworks ignite all over Reykjavik.

            You won’t see any traditional theme parks for kids, but Iceland is still a great location for a family vacation, even in the winter.  Children are treated to natural wonders such as waterfalls, volcanoes, and geysers, available on the Golden Circle tour that runs year-round.  The tourist card gives families free entrance to The Reykjavik Zoo, Family Park and Scienceworld.  The Viking Village is also a popular spot for visitors both young and old—they get to sample old Viking fare, listen to Icelandic music played by a Viking band, and watch a live show.

            Although visiting Iceland in the winter can be a cold, dark, and expensive endeavor, if planned well, it is a destination that one will never forget.